Can You Over-Exfoliate Skin with Acids?
Chemical exfoliation produces some of the most dramatic results you can get with at-home skincare treatments. Just like how sunscreen can make all the difference to your anti-aging routine, gentle exfoliants are the most difference-making product in your skincare routine. However, can you take things too far and over-exfoliate skin? It's possible if you don't take the time to experiment and determine which strength of exfoliant and frequency of use works best for your skin.
But don't let that intimidate you! With the proper usage of gentle yet effective exfoliating acids, you will see the impressive benefits of chemical exfoliation without hurting your skin. Board-Certified Dermatologist Dr. Debra Jaliman recommends using “gentle exfoliants to smooth dead skin and improve the skin's health.” Here's everything you need to know to safely exfoliate your skin.
The Importance of a Gentle Exfoliant
Gentle means no irritants, such as high amounts of harsh, drying alcohol, menthol that makes the skin tingle, and fragrance (whether synthetic or natural essential oils).
Gentle also means that the formula should contain agents that soothe the skin to keep it in a calm and healthy state while the exfoliators go to work. Examples of skin-soothing ingredients include allantoin, bisabolol, green tea extract, and oat extract, just to name a few.
Notice we keep repeating the word gentle. That's because your exfoliant doesn't need to be harsh on the skin to work. Quite the contrary—when properly formulated, exfoliating acids should leave your skin in a calm, healthy state. And don't forget that gentle formulas are important for all of your skincare products, not just the exfoliants.
What about those who have a sensitive skin type? Can they still use a chemical exfoliant? Yes, in this case, the CALM
1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant may be an optimal choice since BHA has natural soothing properties. But before that, there are several things that you'll need to do to reap the benefits of a chemical exfoliant.
1. Assess your Skin before Using a Chemical Exfoliant
If your skin barrier is in a compromised state, hold off on chemical exfoliation. Compromised skin feels tight or uncomfortable, may feel dehydrated or look flaky, and is often accompanied by redness or other signs of irritation.
Compromised skin can be caused by using irritating ingredients or being overly aggressive with potent skincare actives. It can also be caused by environmental factors such as extreme cold temperatures or sun damage. Take note of what's triggering the issue and make changes to get your skin back to a healthy state before proceeding with chemical exfoliation.
2. Ditch Abrasive Exfoliating Scrubs
If you've been using an abrasive scrub, stop immediately. Harsh scrubs abrade and erode the skin's barrier, ultimately leaving the skin in a weaker state.
Research also shows that physical face scrubs aren't as effective and lack the additional benefits chemical exfoliants can provide, such as hydrating the skin (yes, you read that right, exfoliating acids can increase hydration), reducing breakouts, and minimising the appearance of wrinkles and discolourations.
What Concentration should I look for in a Chemical Exfoliant?
There are three main categories of at-home chemical exfoliators available: alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), and polyhydroxy acid (PHA). Each has a recommended concentration range for best results.
For regular use (think daily or every few days, depending on your skin's needs), AHAs and PHAs are generally recommended in concentrations between 4% to 10%.
For BHA (salicylic acid), up to 2% is considered best for regular use, and for acne exfoliants, the US FDA and HSA regulate the use of salicylic acid at 0.5% to 2% as an active ingredient.
Higher concentrations of these hydroxy acids can be helpful for stubborn concerns, but that's where extra precaution and attention come into play. For instance, the SKIN PERFECTING BHA 9 can be used as an occasional spot treatment to reduce stubborn bumps.
What about combinations of exfoliating acids formulated into one product, resulting in a higher strength overall? If the skincare product was carefully formulated to minimise the risk of irritation, this kind of exfoliant can work well to target advanced concerns. It should have a caveat that this should be limited to less frequent usage, at a maximum of once a week, and in a rinse-off format instead of being left on the skin overnight. We repeat, do not use this kind of at-home, peel-strength exfoliant daily.
*In-office chemical peel treatments are a whole other topic. Please consult your dermatologist for more information.
Does pH matter for Chemical Exfoliants?
Along with selecting a gentle formulation that contains skin-soothing ingredients, the pH of your chemical exfoliant is crucial. It can make or break the formula and how your skin responds to it. For acid-based exfoliants, the optimal pH range for safe, effective use is between 3 and 4. Using highly acidic (lower pH values) or highly alkaline (pH 8 or greater) products can cause a significant disruption in the skin's barrier. This is how some chemical exfoliants on the market cause trouble for your skin.
How do you know what the pH of your exfoliant product is? Reputable brands will list this information on the packaging or their website. If they don't, you can contact the company to ask for more information. If all else fails, you can buy pH strips to test it yourself.
How often should I use Exfoliating Acids on my Skin?
If you're new to using hydroxy acid exfoliants, it's best to introduce them into your skincare routine slowly. When you first start out, you'll have to space out applications to only two or three times the first week. If your skin does well (no signs of distress), you can gradually increase the frequency of use up to two times a day.
Applying it twice a day can be a game-changer if you have more stubborn bumps, clogs, acne or advanced signs of sun damage. Others will find that once daily or even once every few days usage is their skin's sweet spot. It will take some experimenting to find the right cadence.
Special tip for those with acne: it can take frequent applications in the beginning to get the skin under control. You may find you can scale back to every few days for maintenance, or you may need ongoing daily use to keep your skin clear. It truly depends on your skin's requirements and how it responds, which is why there is no hard and fast rule.
Does Chemical Exfoliation Damage the Skin's Barrier?
Studies have shown that well-formulated AHAs and PHAs do not damage the skin's barrier. Instead, they disrupt the bonds that are holding dead cells to the skin's surface, allowing them to shed like they once did. Moreover, research has shown that topical use of AHAs and PHAs can actually strengthen the skin's barrier health.
Likewise, there is no concern with BHA exfoliants when properly formulated and used correctly. Because BHA is lipid/oil soluble, it can get past the skin's barrier without harming it, while still ungluing the bonds of dead skin on the surface. Bonus: this oil solubility also allows it to unclog congested pores.
That said, if the skincare product is not well-formulated in the ways discussed above, all bets are off. Sensitising your skin is absolutely a possibility.
Are Chemical Exfoliants Safe to use Long-Term?
Exfoliating acids have long had a proven track record of safe use in cosmetics. If the product is well formulated and used as directed, there is no concern with a long-term commitment.
As is recommended for any skincare routine, follow with sunscreen for the face (SPF 30 or greater) to keep the skin protected against the short- and long-term visible effects of sun damage.
Learn more about chemical exfoliants and shop for gentle exfoliators on Paula's Choice Singapore.
References for this Information
Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, pages 1-5
Molecules, April 2018, https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23040863
Dermatology and Therapy, March 2015, pages 1–18
International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, October 2020, pages 1-2
International Journal of Toxicology, 2017, pages 15S-21S
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review, April 2019, pages 1-60
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2021, pages 1-13
Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2010, pages 500-510
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003, pages 473-492
