How Do BHA Exfoliants Work?
As a result of thorough research, it’s clear that daily exfoliation helps achieve smooth, even-toned, and hydrated skin. If you’re looking for ways to exfoliate your skin to get such results, a leave-on BHA exfoliant is among the best ones.
What is BHA? Is BHA the Same as Salicylic Acid?
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) is a class of oil-soluble exfoliating acids, with salicylic acid being the most common and well-researched form used in skincare. Despite having the word “acid”, BHA is completely non-abrasive and boasts soothing and calming properties. This makes a BHA leave-on exfoliant much gentler on your skin than most exfoliating scrubs or abrasive cleansing brushes.
Do BHA Exfoliants Dissolve Blackheads?
BHA exfoliants work on the skin’s uppermost layers to loosen the bonds between the dead skin while also penetrating deep into the pores to decongest them. This enables BHA to break down the hardened sebum and debris that form blackheads. Furthermore, it also helps to normalise oil flow along the pore lining, leading to a large reduction in the appearance of enlarged pores and significantly fewer blackheads overall.
Besides helping you to manage blackheads, BHA is incredibly hydrating and can also help diminish the look of lines and wrinkles, while also improving the skin’s firmness, texture, and tone. Plus, much like alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), they’re also great for all skin types and skin concerns. Their multitasking properties allow you to simplify your routine by tackling signs of aging, uneven texture, and congestion all at once.
Our BHA Formula
Our collection of BHA exfoliants is formulated to help with many skin concerns, from our RESIST line, focused on anti-aging, to our CLEAR line for anti-acne, and the CALM line, designed to soothe anti-redness concerns. No matter which skincare collection you choose, all our BHA exfoliants are gentle enough for skin prone to milia and rosacea. This gentleness is due, in part, to their optimised pH—between 3 and 4.
Our SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, the fan favourite, is formulated at a 3.2–3.8 pH level. On top of being fragrance-free and alcohol-free, its penetration-enhancing methylpropanediol doubles as a hydrating agent and helps the BHA to work more effectively. It also has green tea,which imparts an extra skin-soothing action. Last but not least, the opaque, air-restrictive packaging keeps the formula stable for greater efficacy.
Is a BHA Exfoliant Right for You?
With so many chemical exfoliants in the market, from BHA, AHA, to PHA, how do you know which is right for you?
Choose BHA if you’re concerned about the following:
- Clogged Pores and Bumps: Since BHA is oil-soluble, it can penetrate deep within the pore lining to clear excess oil and other substances that lead to congestion. The result is fewer bumps and smaller pores. It’s even suitable for skin prone to keratosis pilaris, especially when paired with a gentle, water-soluble body wash.
- Sensitive Skin: BHA’s natural soothing properties are ideal for sensitive and reddened skin.
If you're only concerned with surface-level texture issues and aren't dealing with sensitivity, redness, or clogged pores, an AHA exfoliant may be the right choice. Alternatively, if you seek gentle surface exfoliation and have sensitive skin, PHA exfoliants offer a great, non-irritating option.
You may also want to consider the combined benefits possible from the weekly use of a rinse-off salicylic acid peel that also contains a blend of resurfacing AHAs. Occasional use of such exfoliants helps target stubborn concerns and advanced signs of aging.
Why Should You Avoid Scrubs?
The word ”exfoliation” is often linked to abrasive face or body scrubs. A gentle scrub, applied with a light touch, a soft washcloth, or a very soft-bristled cleansing brush, can be good for a more thorough cleansing. However, most of these scrubs are too harsh and can actually be harmful to the skin. They almost always contain rough-edged ingredients that create micro-tears on the skin’s surface, leading to visible damage over time. Plus, they can’t unclog pores or reveal even-toned, bump-free, young-looking skin the way a BHA exfoliant can.
How to Use a BHA Exfoliant?
Exfoliants should be applied after using a face cleanser but before a skin toner. After applying the exfoliant, you can use other products in your skincare routine, like face serums, skin boosters, and face moisturizers, in order from thinnest to thickest texture—but ensure that there are no active ingredients in these or you’ll risk irritating your skin. After that, you can finish with a non-comedogenic sunscreen during the day.
An occasional-use rinse-off BHA peel should be applied to cleansed skin and rinsed after several minutes. Pat skin dry and follow with the rest of your routine.
How Often Should I Use Paula's Choice BHA Exfoliant?
You can use Paula's Choice BHA every day. Exfoliate once, either in the morning or evening, whichever is most convenient for you. Many people with stubborn clogged pores have experienced great results by using a Paula’s Choice BHA exfoliant twice per day.
Note: Those new to using BHA should start by only applying every other day and note the skin's response before moving on to a more frequent application.
Tips to Get the Best Results for Large Pores From a BHA Exfoliant
- Apply your BHA product immediately before or after using another product—there’s no need to wait between steps for the BHA exfoliant to absorb.
- You can safely apply the exfoliant to the under-eye area, up to the edge of the orbital bone.
- While daily exfoliation is suitable for many, experiment to find what works best for your skin. Start slow and gradually increase application frequency as your skin adjusts.
- For specialised needs, consider our more potent BHA exfoliants for special skin care needs. BHA 9 is excellent for spot application on imperfections, while the RESIST Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA can dramatically improve signs of ageing and rough, bumpy skin.
Shop from Paula’s Choice range of skincare products online.
References for This Information
Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2015, pages 451–455
Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, ePublication
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 2007, pages 651–663
International Journal of Toxicology, 2003 Supplement, pages 1–108
Archives of Dermatological Research, June 1997, pages 404–409
Journal of cosmetic dermatology, December 2025, https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70589
Cureus, October 2021, doi:10.7759/cureus.18917
